Ciutat Vella
First-timersThe old town and market.

Paella where it was invented, a park that runs through a drained riverbed, futuristic architecture and a city beach, with fewer crowds than Barcelona.
Valencia is Spain's third city, on the Mediterranean between Barcelona and Andalusia. In 1957, after a devastating flood, the river Turia was diverted, and its old bed became a nine-kilometre park that runs through the heart of the city.
At the end of it stands the City of Arts and Sciences, a cluster of white futuristic buildings by Santiago Calatrava. The old town has a Gothic silk exchange, La Lonja, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the biggest covered markets in Europe.
Valencia is the home of paella and of Las Fallas, a March festival of fire. It is relaxed, affordable and three days is right.
Stay in the old town, Ruzafa for bars, or near the beach at Cabanyal.
The old town and market.
Bars and restaurants.
The old fishermen's quarter by the sea.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 12 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
The routes we would take, in the order we would take them.
Walk or cycle the Turia gardens, nine kilometres of park in the old riverbed, to the City of Arts and Sciences, with its science museum, opera house and aquarium, the Oceanogràfic.
The Central Market, in a modernist hall, is one of the largest in Europe. La Lonja, the Gothic silk exchange, is across the street. Climb the cathedral's Micalet tower for the view.
Take the bus to La Albufera, a lagoon south of the city, for a boat trip and paella in El Palmar, where rice has been grown for centuries.
The beaches at Malvarrosa and Cabanyal are a tram ride from the centre.
The Turia gardens, the beaches and the old town are free.
Many municipal museums are free on Sundays.
Paella valenciana is made with chicken and rabbit, not seafood, and eaten at lunch, never dinner. Arroz a banda and arroz negro are the seafood rices.
Horchata, a drink made from tiger nuts, with fartons for dipping, is the local treat.
A menú del día is €12 to €15.
Ruzafa is the bar district, El Carmen in the old town is livelier and younger, and the beach clubs run in summer.
A beer is €2.50 to €4.
The centre is walkable, and the metro and trams cover the rest. The metro reaches the airport in about twenty minutes.
AVE trains reach Madrid in under two hours and Barcelona in about three.
Valencia is cheaper than Barcelona and Madrid. Dorms start around €18. A careful day is €40 to €55.
Fallas week in March sees prices soar.
The euro is the currency. Cards work almost everywhere, though small bars still like cash.
Valencia is safe, with pickpockets in the old town and on the beach.
Emergency number is 112, with English-speaking operators usually available.
Rice fields, lagoons and a tomato fight.

A lagoon, rice fields and paella.

A castle town.

A castle on a rock in the sea.
Las Fallas burns giant sculptures across the city in March.
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March to June and September to October. Fallas fills mid-March.
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Fallas week runs far higher.
The ones we get asked most.
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