Salvador
City guide

Things to do in Salvador

Brazil's first capital and the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture: pastel colonial streets, drumming on Tuesday nights, capoeira in the squares and the biggest street carnival in the world.

20
Hostels in the city
7.8
Average, from 5,258 reviews
1549
Founded, Brazil's first capital
4–5
Days to do it properly

Where Brazil began

Salvador da Bahia was founded in 1549 as the capital of Portuguese Brazil, and for two centuries it was one of the richest cities in the Americas, built on sugar and the labour of enslaved Africans. That history shaped everything: Salvador has one of the largest Black populations of any city outside Africa, and its music, religion, food and dance are rooted in West African traditions.

The city is built on two levels. The Cidade Alta, the upper city, holds the Pelourinho, a UNESCO-listed historic centre of cobbled squares, baroque churches and colourful colonial houses. The Cidade Baixa, the lower city, runs along the bay, linked by the Elevador Lacerda, an art deco lift. South of the centre, Barra and Rio Vermelho have the beaches and the nightlife.

Give Salvador four or five days: two for the Pelourinho and the city's culture, one or two on the beaches, and an evening on Tuesday for the drumming in the streets. Visit with care, as some areas are unsafe, especially after dark.

Where to base yourself

Barra is the safest and most popular base, with beaches and easy transport. The Pelourinho is atmospheric but quiet late at night. Rio Vermelho is the nightlife district.

Barra

Beaches, safest base

The southern tip of the city, with the lighthouse, beaches and most hostels.

Pelourinho

History, culture, music

The UNESCO-listed historic centre. Atmospheric by day and on Tuesday nights, quiet and less safe late.

Rio Vermelho

Nightlife, local feel

The bohemian district between Barra and the northern beaches, with bars and live music.

Santo Antônio Além do Carmo

Quieter historic streets

Just north of the Pelourinho, with guesthouses, small bars and views over the bay.

Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 6 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.

Things to do

Things to do in Salvador

Spend a day in the Pelourinho. The São Francisco church is covered inside in gold leaf, the Largo do Pelourinho is one of the most photographed squares in Brazil, and the Afro-Brazilian Museum and the Casa do Benin tell the story of the city's African heritage. Capoeira groups perform and train in the squares, and drumming groups like Olodum rehearse in the streets, especially on Tuesday nights.

Ride the Elevador Lacerda down to the lower city for the Mercado Modelo, a craft market by the bay, and then head south to Barra for the lighthouse, the Farol da Barra, and sunset over the water. The Bonfim church, in the north of the city, is famous for its ribbons, tied on wrists and railings for good luck.

Take a capoeira or drumming class, see a samba de roda performance, and if you can, visit during Carnival, when the city's streets fill with millions of people following trios elétricos, giant sound trucks.

Free things

And what it costs nothing to do

The streets of the Pelourinho are free to wander, and the music, capoeira and street life are part of the show. On Tuesday nights, the free outdoor concerts and drumming in the squares are the city's weekly party.

The beaches in Barra are free, and the sunset at the Farol da Barra is one of the best things to do in Salvador. The Bonfim church and its ribbons are free to visit, and the walk along the bay in the lower city is lovely in the late afternoon.

During Carnival, most of the street parties are free, though the safest way to join is inside a bloco rope, which costs money.

Food and drink

Eating and drinking

Bahian food is the most distinctive in Brazil, built on African ingredients like palm oil (dendê), coconut milk and chilli. Acarajé, a fritter of black-eyed peas fried in dendê and filled with prawns and spicy vatapá paste, is sold by Baianas in white dresses on street corners and is the essential snack.

Moqueca baiana, a fish or prawn stew cooked in a clay pot with coconut milk and dendê, is the signature dish, served with rice and farofa. Bobó de camarão, a creamy prawn and cassava dish, is another favourite.

Por quilo restaurants and simple local places keep lunch cheap, and the beach bars in Barra serve cold beer and fried fish. Coconut water from a fresh coconut is everywhere.

Nightlife

Going out

Rio Vermelho is Salvador's nightlife district, with bars, live music and acarajé stalls around the Largo da Mariquita, busiest from Thursday to Sunday. Barra has beachside bars and a lively crowd, especially in summer.

In the Pelourinho, Tuesday night is the big night, with drumming, concerts and crowds in the squares, and there is live music on weekends too.

Salvador's music is everywhere: axé, samba-reggae and pagode. Use Uber or 99 to move between neighbourhoods at night.

Getting around

Getting around

Salvador is spread out, so apps are the easiest way to move between the Pelourinho, Barra and Rio Vermelho, and they are cheap. The Elevador Lacerda links the upper and lower city for a tiny fare.

The metro runs from the centre to the airport and the bus station, and city buses cover the coast. The airport is around 25km north-east of the centre, around 40 minutes by app or connected by metro.

The Rodoviária bus terminal has services to Lençóis for the Chapada Diamantina, Itacaré and the coast. Boats from the Terminal Marítimo cross to Morro de São Paulo and the islands of the bay.

Costs

What Salvador costs

Salvador is cheaper than Rio and São Paulo. Dorm beds run from around €9 to €17, a por quilo lunch costs €4 to €8, and an acarajé less than that.

Carnival changes everything: accommodation can triple and sells out months ahead, and joining a bloco costs extra.

Cards and Pix are widely accepted, but carry some cash for street food and small bars. Keep only what you need on you.

Safety

Safety and scams

Salvador needs care. Robbery and phone snatching are common, especially at night and in quiet streets. The Pelourinho is well policed by day, but the streets around it empty quickly in the evening, and the area between the Pelourinho and the lower city is best avoided at night.

Use Uber or 99 at night, carry as little as possible and keep your phone out of sight. At Carnival, take only a little cash and a cheap phone, and join a bloco for a safer experience.

Bahianas may offer ribbons or blessings and then ask for money, and some people in the Pelourinho charge for photos. Agree a price first or politely decline. In an emergency, call 190 for police or 192 for an ambulance.

Worth leaving the city for

Islands, beaches and the mountains of the Chapada Diamantina.

Morro de São Paulo

Morro de São Paulo

About 2.5 hours · Catamaran from the Terminal Marítimo

A car-free island village with beaches and nightlife.

Praia do Forte

Praia do Forte

About 1.5 hours · Bus

A beach village with a sea turtle conservation project.

Lençóis and the Chapada Diamantina

Lençóis and the Chapada Diamantina

About 6–7 hours · Bus

Waterfalls, caves and table mountains. Stay several days.

What's on

What is on while you are there

Salvador has the biggest street carnival in the world, and a festival for almost every month.

When to go

Salvador is warm all year. September to March is the driest and sunniest time; April to July is the rainy season. Carnival is in February or March.

30°
Jan
Summer, festive season
30°
Feb
Carnival. Book months ahead
30°
Mar
Hot, end of summer
29°
Apr
Rainy season begins
28°
May
Wettest month
27°
Jun
Rainy, São João festivals
26°
Jul
Rain easing
26°
Aug
Mild, fewer visitors
27°
Sep
Drier and sunny
28°
Oct
A great month
29°
Nov
Warm and sunny
29°
Dec
Summer, festivals begin
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets: quiet busy peak

Average highs, rounded. Rain falls in heavy showers rather than all day.

What your trip will cost

Per night, for one person, based on Salvador prices outside Carnival.

Treat these as a guide. Carnival costs far more.

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  • Beds—
  • Food and drink—
  • Getting around—
  • Doing things—

Salvador questions

The ones we get asked most.

Where should I stay in Salvador?
Barra is the safest and most popular base, with beaches and good transport. The Pelourinho is atmospheric but quiet late at night, and Rio Vermelho suits nightlife.
Is Salvador safe?
With care. Robbery is common, especially at night. Use apps after dark, carry little, keep your phone hidden and avoid empty streets around the Pelourinho at night.
When is the best time to visit Salvador?
September to March for sunny, drier weather. Carnival, in February or March, is unforgettable but expensive and needs booking months ahead.
What is special about Tuesday nights in Salvador?
Tuesday is the Pelourinho's weekly party, with drumming groups and free concerts in the squares.
What should I eat in Salvador?
Acarajé from the Baianas on the street, moqueca baiana and bobó de camarão.
How many days do you need in Salvador?
Four or five, including a Tuesday night, plus extra days for Morro de São Paulo or the Chapada Diamantina.
Is Salvador's Carnival bigger than Rio's?
Salvador's is the biggest street carnival in the world by participation, with millions dancing behind trios elétricos. Rio's is famous for the Sambadrome parades.

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