Gorillas, volcanoes and a thousand hills
Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park is the big one. Rangers lead small groups up the bamboo-covered slopes of the Virunga volcanoes to spend an hour with a habituated family. Permits cost US$1,500, are limited each day and should be booked months ahead through the Rwanda Development Board's online system or a tour operator. In the low season, from November to May, a 30% discount applies if you also visit Nyungwe and Akagera. The park also has golden monkey tracking, the hike to Dian Fossey's grave and research camp, and day climbs up Mount Bisoke to its crater lake.
In Kigali, start at the Kigali Genocide Memorial, where more than 250,000 victims are buried. Entry is free, with donations welcome, and the exhibition is essential and harrowing. Then explore the city's markets, craft centres and galleries, and its growing restaurant and café scene.
Lake Kivu, on the western border, is the place to slow down. Rubavu has a lakeside promenade and beaches, Karongi and Rusizi further south are quieter, and the Congo Nile Trail follows the shore for over 200 km through hills and coffee farms, on foot, by bike or by boat.
In the south-west, Nyungwe Forest National Park is one of the oldest rainforests in Africa, with chimpanzee tracking, colobus monkeys and a canopy walkway high above the trees. In the east, Akagera National Park is Rwanda's savannah, with the Big Five, boat trips on Lake Ihema and self-drive game drives.
On the way, Huye has the Ethnographic Museum, one of the best in East Africa, and Nyanza the reconstructed royal palace of the Rwandan kings.