Brik, couscous and a lot of harissa
Tunisian food is the spiciest in North Africa, thanks to harissa, the chilli paste served with bread at almost every meal. Start with brik, a crisp fried pastry usually filled with egg, tuna and parsley, which costs about 1.5 to 2.5 TND from a street stall. Eat it carefully: the yolk should still be runny.
Couscous is the national dish, steamed semolina with lamb, fish or vegetables, and a plate in a local restaurant costs around 8 to 15 TND. Lablabi, a chickpea soup poured over bread with cumin, harissa and an egg, is the cheap, filling breakfast of choice, at around 3 to 5 TND. Ojja, eggs cooked in a spicy tomato and pepper sauce, often with merguez, is another favourite.
Salads are good: salade méchouia is grilled peppers, tomatoes and garlic mashed with olive oil, and Tunisian olive oil is excellent. On the coast, grilled fish is fresh and cheap. For snacks, look for fricassé, small fried sandwiches of tuna, egg and olives.
Sweets are a speciality. Kairouan is famous for makroudh, semolina cakes with dates, and Sidi Bou Said for bambalouni, sugared doughnuts. Mint tea is often served with pine nuts.
Alcohol is legal and available. Celtia is the national beer, Tunisian wine is good value, and boukha is a strong fig spirit. Supermarkets don't sell alcohol on Fridays, and sales are restricted during Ramadan outside the resorts.