Things to do in Santiago

A capital in the shadow of the Andes

Santiago sits in a wide valley in the middle of Chile, with the Andes rising steeply to the east and the coastal hills to the west. On clear days, especially after rain in winter, the mountains look close enough to touch. Most of Chile's flights pass through here, so almost every trip starts or ends in the capital.

The city is a mix of old and new. The historic centre around the Plaza de Armas has colonial churches, the La Moneda presidential palace and busy markets, while the neighbourhoods east of the centre, Providencia, Las Condes and Vitacura, are leafy, modern and full of cafés. In between, Bellavista and Lastarria are where the city goes out, with bars, street art and restaurants.

Give Santiago three days for the city itself: the centre, the hills of San Cristóbal and Santa Lucía, the museums and the markets. Add a day for Valparaíso, a day in the wine valleys and, in winter, a day skiing in the Andes. The city is safe by South American standards, but street theft has risen, so keep your phone out of sight.