Old San Juan
HistoryThe walled old town and the forts.

Puerto Rico's capital: the blue cobblestones and pastel houses of Old San Juan, two huge Spanish forts on the sea, city beaches in Condado and Ocean Park, street art in Santurce, and the Friday-night street party at La Placita.
San Juan was founded by the Spanish in 1521 and is one of the oldest European-founded cities in the Americas. Old San Juan, on a small island at the mouth of the bay, is its historic heart: narrow streets paved with blue-grey cobblestones, brightly painted colonial houses, and the forts of El Morro and San Cristóbal, which together with La Fortaleza form a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The modern city stretches east along the Atlantic. Condado and Ocean Park have the beaches and hotels, Santurce has the murals, food and nightlife, and La Placita market turns into a street party at weekends.
The airport is 15 to 20 minutes from the centre, which makes San Juan an easy start to any trip. Give it three days.
Old San Juan for history and walking; Condado and Ocean Park for beaches; Santurce for food, street art and nightlife.
The walled old town and the forts.
The hotel strip on the Atlantic.
A residential beach area east of Condado.
Murals, La Placita and the art scene.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 7 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk the walls and tunnels of El Morro and San Cristóbal, the two Spanish forts run by the US National Park Service; one ticket covers both. Stroll the Paseo de la Princesa and the Paseo del Morro along the old walls, and wander Calle Fortaleza and Calle San Sebastián.
Spend an afternoon at the beaches of Condado, Ocean Park or El Escambrón, and explore the murals around Calle Cerra in Santurce. Take the cheap ferry across the bay to Cataño and tour the Bacardí distillery.
On Friday or Saturday night, go to La Placita de Santurce, and on a weekend, drive east to the food kiosks of Piñones.
Walking Old San Juan, the Paseo de la Princesa and the Paseo del Morro is free, and so are all the beaches. The murals in Santurce cost nothing.
The lawn in front of El Morro is free and popular for kite flying.
The forts, museums and the distillery charge.
Try mofongo, mashed plantain with garlic and pork crackling, often filled with seafood or meat, and alcapurrias and bacalaítos (fritters) from the Piñones kiosks for €2 to €5.
Restaurant mains cost €15 to €30. Cafeterías and food trucks are cheaper, at €8 to €14.
The piña colada is said to have been invented in San Juan. Tipping works as in the US: 15 to 20 per cent in restaurants and bars.
La Placita de Santurce fills with bars, salsa and reggaeton from Thursday to Saturday nights. Calle San Sebastián in Old San Juan has bars and live music, and Condado has hotel bars and clubs.
Prices are US-level: a beer costs €4 to €7 and a cocktail €8 to €14.
The Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián in January are the biggest party of the year.
Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport is about 15 to 20 minutes from Condado and Old San Juan by Uber or taxi. Old San Juan is walkable but hilly.
Uber works across the metro area. Buses are cheap but slow, and the Tren Urbano rail line serves the inland districts.
Rent a car to explore the island.
Hostel beds start at around €22 to €40 a night. Kiosk food costs €2 to €5 an item, and restaurant mains €15 to €30.
The forts cost about €9 for both, and the Bacardí tour about €25 to €50.
Puerto Rico uses the US dollar. Cards work almost everywhere.
Old San Juan, Condado, Ocean Park and Santurce are fine with ordinary care, but some neighbourhoods have high crime and no reason to visit. Use Uber late at night and do not leave valuables in a parked car.
Some city beaches have strong currents; swim where others are swimming or where there are lifeguards.
Tap water is generally safe to drink, but buy bottled water after storms or outages. In an emergency, call 911.
Rainforest, beaches and caves.

Rainforest and waterfalls.
Street festivals and holidays.
Four days of music and parades.
Walking backwards into the sea at midnight for luck.
Parrandas and long celebrations.
The highest-rated hostels in San Juan, live from Hostelworld. Prices and availability are live on each property page.
Sustainable
December to April is the dry, busy season. May to November is hotter and wetter, and hurricane season runs from June to November, peaking from August to October.
Average highs, rounded. Warm all year.
Per night, for one person, based on San Juan prices.
Treat these as a guide. Prices are US-level.
The ones we get asked most.
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